1. Measure the inside opening between the mounting surface NOTE: Verify that the opening is not wider than the length of the rails provided.

2. Lay the bottom rail beside the mounting surfaces with the spindle holes facing up. Allow the rail to extend past the mounting surface on each side. Be sure to place the first spindle hole on each side. Be sure to place the first spindle hole on each end of the rail the same distance from the mounting surface. NOTE: Should the spindle hole fall inside or directly beside a mounting surface, slide the rail approximately 2” in either direction to align spindle holes evenly between mounting surfaces.
When properly positioned, mark rail and cut.

3. Lay the bottom rail, aligning spindle holes, mark and cut to match length.


4. Locate the crush block. The formula for crush block length is: Desired clearance from bottom rail to deck + 3 ¼” = length of crush block.
(Spindle lengths are sized for a traditional 2” clearance from bottom rail to deck.) Once the block is trimmed, insert into precut hole on underside of bottom rail.

5. Slide mounting brackets onto bottom rail. Place bottom rail into opening make sure rail is level. With brackets centered on the mounting surface, attach with screws. NOTE: When installing screws into fiberglass or synthetic materials, pre-drill holes using a 1/8” drill bit.

6. Insert spindles into precut holes in bottom rail. The spindles come sized for either a 36” or a 42” rail height based on the traditional two-inch clearance. If your application is different, you have the option of trimming the spindles to you desired height. BE SURE TO CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL CODE OFFICIALS FOR ANY HEIGHT REQUIREMENTS.

7. Slide mounting brackets onto top rail. Place top rail on spindles inserting spindles one at a time while holding at an upward angle. Make sure rail is flush on all spindles.

8. Center top rail brackets on the mounting surface making sure top rail is aligned above bottom rail. Attach brackets with provided 2 ½” screws.

9. Level the spindles vertically and place a locking screw through the side of the top and bottom rail brackets. The hole for this screw is not predrilled. NOTE: ONLY ONE SIDE (TOP AND BOTTOM) NEEDS TO BE SECURED. THERE ARE AN EXTRA 2” AND 2 ½” SCREW PROVIDED.
B. STAIR KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1.Measure the inside opening between the mounting surface NOTE: Verify that the opening is not wider than the length of the rails provided.

2. Lay the bottom rail on the stair tread with the spindle holes facing up. Allow the rail to extend past the mounting surface at the top and bottom of the stairs. Be sure to place the first spindle hole on each end of the rail the same distance from the mounting surface.

3. Mark rail where it crosses the mounting surfaces and cut to length and angle.

4. Lay top rail beside bottom rail, aligning spindle holes. Mark and cut to match length and angle.

5. Slide reversible, sloped mounting brackets on bottom rail. The sloped mounting brackets are made to fit any angle between 30 and 35 degrees. Depending on your application, there may be marginal spacing in the bracket to rail fit.

6. Place bottom rail into opening. With brackets centered on the mounting surface, attach with screws. NOTE: when installing screws into fiberglass or synthetic material, pre-drill holes using a 1/8” drill bit.

7. Insert spindle into precut holes in bottom rail. Square spindles come sized for either a 36” or a 42” rail height based on traditional two-inch clearance. Colonial spindles only come sized for 36” rail height. If your application is different, you have the option of trimming the spindles to your desired height. Be sure to check with your local code officials for any height requirements.

8. Slide mounting brackets onto top rail. Place top rail on spindles inserting spindles one at a time while holding at an upward angle. Make sure rail is flushed on all spindles. NOTE: DELUXE TOP RAIL BRACKETS ARE NOT REVERSIBLE.

9. Center top rail brackets on the mounting surface making sure it is aligned over bottom rail. Also make sure spindles are aligned at the desired angle. Attach brackets with screws.

10. Place a (provided) 2” locking screw through the side of the top and bottom rail brackets. The hole for this screw is not predrilled. NOTE: ONLY ONE SIDE (TOP AND BOTTOM) NEEDS TO BE SECURED. THERE ARE AN EXTRA 2” AND 2 ½” SCREW PROVIDED.

1. Place the multi-angle brackets on the top and bottom rails making sure the bracket font goes on the rail first.

2. Measure the distance between the mounting surfaces.

3. With the bracket on the rail, cut the rail and bracket to the required length with the miter saw set at 22.5 degrees.

1. Place the multi-angle brackets on the top and bottom rails making sure the brackets front goes on the rail first.

2. Measure the distance between the mounting surfaces.

3. With the bracket on the rail, cut the rail and bracket to the required length with the miter saw set at 45-degrees.

1. With the bracket end flush with the end of the rail trim 1-1/2” off the length of the bracket and rail.
2. Use the aped square to scribe a 45-degree line from each mounting corner on the top and bottom of bracket until they cross.
3. Use duct tape to hold the bracket in place on the railing during cutting.
4. Use the jigsaw to cut out the scribed areas on the top and bottom of the bracket. It may be necessary to lightly sand the cut area on the bracket.
5. It may be necessary to caulk the seams where the bracket meets the mounting surface.

1. Place multi-angle on the top and bottom rails making sure the bracket front goes on the rail first.
2. Place the bottom rail with brackets on the stair tread (spindle holes up) allowing the brackets to extend past the mounting surface. Be sure to leave the same distance between the last spindle hole and the mounting surface at each end.
3. Scribe the brackets where they cross the mounting surface for the correct cut.
4. Cut the rail and bracket at the scribe mark for the desired angle.
5. With the bottom rail beside the mounting surfaces, place a spindle in the last holes at the top and bottom of the rail.
6. Place the top rail on the spindles allowing the top rail brackets to extend past the mounting surfaces.
7. Scribe the bracket where they cross the mounting surface for the correct cut.
8. Cut the rail and bracket at the scribe mark for the desired angle.

1. Make sure the area under the mounting location has an additional block between the joists directly under the deck surface.

2. Drill a ½” hole through wood surface and joist block.

3. Align center hole on post mount with hole in surface. Insert thread rod with (1) ½” washer and (1) ½” hex nut on the top in that order.

4. Slide the 3” square plate onto the bolt under the mounting surface followed by (1) ½” washer, (1) ½” lock washer and (1) ½” hex nut on the bolt leaving approximately 1” of threaded rod beyond the end of the hex nut.

5. Position the post mount and tighten the top hex nut until the post mount is secure.

6. Further secure the post mount using (2) of the provided 2 ½” stainless steel screws on each side the post mount in the predrilled holes.

7. Insert post into post mount and level vertically. DO NOT SUBSTITUTE ANY POST SLEVE FOR THE ONE PROVIDED IN THE KIT.

8. Secure post in post mount using (2) of the included 2 ½” stainless steel screws on each side of the post mount. Indentions on each side of the post mount mark the correct location for each screw. Leave the middle indention unused. It may be necessary to drill a 1/8” pilot hole.

9. Slide the post kit base down the post and over post mount.

10. Attach taper cap to post sleeve with PVC glue.

1. Determine the mounting location for the center of the post mount and drill a 9/16” hole 4 ¼” deep for the provided epoxy capsule. Clean dust out of hole before inserting.

2. Thread the (1) ½” hex nut, (1) ½” washer, and the 2nd ½” hex nut onto flat end of thread rod and tighten.

3. Screw the included threaded rod into the hole and epoxy capsule using a drill with extension and ¾” socket Screw thread rod to full depth of drilled hole. (Threaded rod will mix with epoxy for full set.) Curing times: 20 minutes above 68 degrees, 30 minutes above 50 degrees, 1 hour above 32 degrees, 5 hours above 23 degrees (Fahrenheit).

4. Remove hex nut and washer from step 2. Slide the post mount by tightening down with (1) ½” hex nut.

5. Place 3” square plate, (1) ½” washer, (1) ½” lock washer in that order onto threaded rod and secure the post mount by tightening down with (1) ½” hex nut.

6. Follow instructions 7-10 of the wood application instructions.