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Installing Large Molding Profiles
Many
large molding profiles cannot be mitered using a
power miter saw or radial arm saw. For some profiles
it may be necessary to cut miters using a miter box
and a hand saw.
How to build a miter box?
1.
Measure the height and projection of your molding.
If you are using several large pieces of moldings,
build the miter box to accommodate the largest
profile.
2. Using
3/4" plywood approximately 6 feet long, cut the
width of the bottom piece exactly to the projection
of the molding you are using.
3. Cut
the sides of the miter box a minimum of 1 3/4" wider
than the height of the largest profile.
4. Screw
the side pieces to the side of your bottom piece.

5.
Cut four 2" strips of plywood and cut them to a
length that is the same width as the bottom of the
miter box. Secure them to the top of the miter box
making sure the sides are square to the bottom.
Note: Keep a 2 1/2 foot opening at the center
of the miter box to allow the angles to be cut in.
6. Using
a framing square, mark out the 45 degree angles.
Square the marks down the side walls. With a
handsaw, cut your angles, making sure to follow your
lines down the side wall.
7. For
the smaller molding profiles, measure the projection
and mark that distance from one wall of the miter
box. Cut a piece of blocking to fill the space left
over. This will act as a wall to rest against the
edge of your molding.
Blocking is an important part of a good
installation.
Proper
blocking should be installed to secure moldings in
place. This is especially important with larger
molding profiles to limit expansion and contraction.
Adhesive
We
recommend using a quality urethane adhesive as part
of the installation process when installing
moldings. We have found that urethane adhesive is
superior to other adhesives that we have tried. We
recommend its use with all of our products. Ask one
of our representatives if you need to order a
quantity of our urethane adhesive. See the
installation instructions for further information.
Worthington molding installation instructions are
included with every molding order. Look for the box
with the red stamp. If for some reason the
instructions did not come with your order, please
call us and we will fax or e-mail them to you.
IMPORTANT- READ CAREFULLY
Moldings should not be installed until the
Installation Instructions have been read.
1. Install moldings on a solid backing with studs or
joists 16” on center or less. Note: Large profiles
require additional blocking.
2. Mark the distance on the wall to be covered by
the first piece of molding. Oversize and cut the
molding, adding 1/8” for every 5 feet of molding
required. Example: If the distance to be covered is
15’ cut your molding at 15’ 3/8”.
3. Run a bead of urethane adhesive along the top and
bottom edge of the molding where it will meet the
backing.
4. Using galvanized screws, fasten one end of the
molding at your starting point. Pull the center of
the molding away from the wall, which will draw the
free end of the molding back to the 15” mark. Secure
the free end of the molding the mark.
5. Push the center of the molding flat into the
surface. The molding should snap into place. Secure
with galvanized screws, 16” on center or less. If
the molding does not push flat, you need to unfasten
one end and resecure the molding approximately 1/8”
past your 15’ mark.
6. For continuous long runs for molding.
A. Install the first piece using the procedure
above.
B. For the second piece, follow steps 1 through 3.
C. Step 4 (above) anchors the end of the molding on
your mark. Then apply urethane adhesive to the end
of the first piece, this will adjoin the nest piece
of molding
D. Butt the free end of the molding to your first
piece and follow step 5 to secure in place. |