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Columns - Installation Instructions

 


WORTHINGTONCAST COLUMNS


1. SPECIAL NOTES AND EXCEPTIONS

• Be certain the load is evenly distributed over the bearing surface of the shaft.
• If building code requires uplift protection, contact Worthington for recommendations.
• To preserve and protect the columns outdoors, it is necessary to paint with one coat of high quality exterior primer followed by two coats of an exterior paint.
• 2nd floor balconies should NOT be attached directly to the side of any fiberglass column. Please contact Worthington for recommendations
• Water should not be allowed to collect inside fiberglass columns. Flashing maybe required to channel water away from the inside of the column. A drainage hole can be drilled at the bottom of shaft and plinth if necessary.

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2. FINISHING AND PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
 

1. Make sure all surfaces are clean prior to painting. Use mineral spirits if oils or alkyd products are use. Warm soapy water should be used if latex products are utilized.
2. It is necessary to sand the column and caps and bases prior to priming and painting. Some filling may be required. Note: The surface on polyurethane caps and bases/ plinths must be thoroughly scuffed and sanded with 120 grit sandpaper and wiped clean prior to priming and painting.
3. Alkyd or oil based primer and paint are recommended. Latex products can be used, but additional sanding is required. Only alkyd or oil base primers and paint must be used on DuraWound columns, caps, astragals, and base/ plinths.
4. Use a good, high-quality exterior paint. At least one coat of primer and two coats of a final paint should be used.
5. Follow paint manufacturer’s instructions concerning use with temperate ranges for best results.
6. Do not use paint or solvents containing acetone.


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3. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

 

1. Determine the position of the plinth by dropping a plumb line from the center of the soffit beam to the floor. Mark this point on the floor with a "X". This mark is where you will center the plinth so that the top of the shaft will align with the soffit.

 

 

2. Measure the overall height. Raise the soffit or porch slightly with brace for easy installation of the column.

 

 

3. Trim column shaft on the bottom end only. Trim with an abrasive saw. (Be sure to use personal protective wear.) Finish both the top and bottom of shaft with a rasp or sander to ensure an even load distribution around the entire circumference.

 

 

4. Slide cap over top of column shaft. Let cap slide down to rest on the neck mold temporarily until shaft is correctly positioned. (If installing a square column, slide neck mould over top of shaft to desired location. Fasten neck mould to shaft. Caulk between neck mould and shaft.)

 

 

5. Slide base/plinth onto column shaft from bottom.

 

 

 

6. Place column in a vertical position with load centered over column shaft with even distribution around bearing surfaces.

 

 

 

7. If installation requires that column be secured in place prior to bearing load, use small L brackets. Be careful to ensure L brackets do not interfere with seating of cap and base/plinth. Note: to secure bracket to column, drill hole into shaft and use through bolts. Do not use screws. Do not over tighten.

 

8. Remove brace to allow load to bear on column shaft.

 

 

 

9. Slide cap up to soffit and attach to soffit using corrosions resistant screws. Attach to floor using appropriate fasteners.

 

 

10. Caulk between cap and soffit, the cap and shaft, and the base and the shaft for a finished appearance.

 

 

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4. ALTERING COLUMNS
 

1. CUTTING COLUMNS TO OVERALL LENGTH. Columns can be field trimmed or ordered from the factory trimmed to a specific length. When trimming a round fiberglass column shaft to length, make sure to trim from the bottom end only. A circular saw with an abrasive blade can be used to make this cut. (Make sure to always wear protective equipment.) It is important to never trim any more than 1/3 of any round fiberglass column shaft. The round fiberglass column has true architectural taper. (The bottom 1/3 is non-tapered, the top 2/3 is tapered.) If more than the bottom 1/3 is trimmed, the base will not fit properly. Square fiberglass columns can be trimmed to any length since they are non-tapered.

2. ALTERING FLUTES- Flutes can be altered only on the adjustable fluted columns if ordered as a special order from the factory. Flutes normally need to be altered if the column will be trimmed in order to avoid cutting into the flutes. Or it may be desired to stop the flutes closer to the top of the base. Standard stock adjustable fluted columns have a 10 ¾” space from the bottom of the flute to the top of the tucsan base/plinth.

3. CUTTING COLUMN AT BEAD- all round fiberglass columns used with decorative capitals should be trimmed flush above the bead/ astragal. The capital should rest on top of the bead/ astragal and will allow for a proper fit. Columns can be ordered from the factory cut at the bead, or this can be trimmed in the field. A circular saw with an abrasive blade can be used to trim a column at the bead/ astragal. (Make sure to use personal protective equipment.) There are several considerations to be made when ordering fiberglass columns used with decorative capitals. The cut at bead loss and the decorative capital height must always be taken into consideration. In addition, a fiberglass column used with a short decorative capital may require that a longer shaft be ordered.


 

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5. JOINING SPLIT COLUMNS

The Worthington Split-Kit includes everything needed to install a split column (these kits must be purchased separately). Columns that are split to surround structural supports should be installed similarly to un-split columns. However, the following procedures should be followed when putting the split halves back together.
 

1. Split columns are shipped from the factory with matching halves wrapped together. Keep the columns halves together as packages and mark the columns halves by number sets so that they cannot be mismatched. It is important to reassemble split halves as soon as possible after shipping. We do not recommend storing for an extended amount of time. Make sure columns halves match before applying bonding adhesive. Level and check your measurements, and then install split halves around the structural support.

2. Tabbing is required on all DuraWound columns that are split. Call Worthington for recommendations. Tabbing is optional for Worthington-Cast columns split for reassembly.

3. Rejoin the shaft using high-quality, exterior, waterproof construction adhesive suitable for fiberglass columns. Surfaces must be clean and dry prior to applying adhesives. Follow manufacturer’s instructions concerning use with temperature ranges and working time for best results.

4. Align halves around the post or structural support and join together. Clamp and tighten uniformly until adhesive sets. (Alternatively, nylon reinforced tape wrapped very tightly around the column can be used.) The compression should be applied approximately even 12” along the length of the shaft.

5. Place aluminum plates across split at top and bottom of shaft. Mark and pre-drill holes using a 7/64” bit.

6. Screw down one side of aluminum plate and then the other side of the plate. The aluminum plates will bend around the shaft. This step should be done for all plates.

7. After Adhesive cures, remove the clamps, straps or tape. Rough sand with 80 grit and finish sand with 120 grit or finer sandpaper.

8. Rejoin the caps and base/plinths with the same adhesive.

9. A fiberglass boat repair kit or “Bondo” may be used as a filler. Follow the instructions on the package.




Suggested Adhesives: CX-948, OSI Quickbond Multi-Purpose Adhesive, Macklandburg-Duncan Contractor’s Choice Multi-Purpose Adhesive, 3M-5200 Adhesive, PL-400, Titebond, Maxbond, or Akemi APF7
 

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6. JOINING SPLIT AND TABBED COLUMNS

All DuraWound fiberglass columns that are ordered split should be ordered split and tabbed. If columns are ordered from the factory split and tabbed, Worthington will prepare DuraWound columns as follows:
 

1. Plywood forms will be installed inside one half of the column shaft. These will be plywood ribs with a segment removed from each to allow passage around the structural support. Plywood ribs will be placed in 3-foot intervals.

2. Tabs made of wood blocks will be installed down both seams inside one of the columns halves. Worthington will permanently attach tabs to only one half of each column. The function of the tabs are attached to the inside walls of the column, and they are not visible after the column halves are joined.

3. Doweled mending blocks will be attached to the inside of fiberglass caps and base/ plinths only to facilitate re-assembly of the split caps and base/ plinths. (This is not supplied on polyurethane caps and base/plinths.)




AT THE JOB SITE, THE INSTALLATION SHOULD PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:
 

1. The column half with ribs and tabs can be trial fitted by placing the column around the structural post. The other half should be positioned, lapping over the tabs. Secure with flexible web clamps approximately ever 3 feet. If grabber screws will be used, drill small pilot holes every 6” through the lapping column half into the wood tabs.

2. Apply adhesive to the outer surface of the tabs. (This can be done with the column standing, or the column can be removed.) The lapping column should be installed and secured with flexible clamps. Grabber screws may or may not be needed depending upon the number of clamps used. If grabber screws are used, fasten them into the holes drilled in step one.

3. After adhesive cures, the grabber screws are removed. The screw holes and seam should be filled using a filler compound such as “Bond” or a fiberglass boat repair kit.

4. Finish the seam area with 120 sandpaper after filler compound has dried.

5. Rejoin the caps and base/ plinth halves around the shaft with adhesive. Secure cap to soffit. At base, secure plinth seams with filler compound and sand after filler compound has dried.

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7. HOW TO SPLIT FIBERGLASS/ WOOD COLUMNS
 

1. Secure column to sawhorse or table using scotches. Scotches should be wrapped with cloth material to provide cushion and to avoid scratching column.

2. Place the scotches snugly against the column ensuring that the column will remain in place while being cut.

3. After column is secured, a chalk line should be applied to the column. To lay the chalk line, place a string over the base end diameter of the column to the center of the string ensuring that the string is centered. Mark the column on the top where the string is centered. Run the chalk line from the mark on the top end of the column to the mark on the base end and snap the chalk line.

4. To make the bottom line, use a circumference measuring tape and measure the circumference distance from the top mark and place a mark on the bottom of the column.

5. Once both chalk lines have been applied to the column, set the saw blade at the appropriate depth ensuring that it will pass cleanly through the bead/ astragal molding.

6. Use a circular saw with an abrasive blade. (Make sure to use proper protective equipment.) Begin sawing from the base end moving to the bead/ astragal end. Rotate column and repeat sawing on the bottom.


 

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8. HOW TO ATTACH A SPLIT FIBERGLASS/ WOOD COLUMN TO A WALL AS A PILASTER.
 

1. Select desired location and trace short lines at the top, midpoint, and bottom on both sides of the split column.

2. Gage the thickness of the column wall and trace lines to show where the inside wall will be at the top, midpoint, and bottom. Note: Wall thickness on fiberglass columns at the top is widest because of the flare just above the bead.

3. Attach six wood blocks (two screws per block) to the building wall just inside the traced lines your marked in step two. The block dimensions should be approximately ¾” X 1 ½” X 3”. Make sure that the top and the bottom blocks within height of the cap and base so that finishing will not be required with the countersunk holes.

4. Drill six holes in the column wall at the points where the screws will line up with the blocks installed in step three. Holes should be countersunk so that the head of the screw will be slightly below the surface of the column wall.

5. Place the split column in position and fasten it to the wood blocks. Screws should be snug. Do not over tighten because the column wall can be damaged.

6. Attach split cap and base/ plinths using dry wall screws. Make sure to pre-drill holes. Fasten cap and base/plinth to wall, ceiling or floor.

7. Caulk joints and seam where the column edge meets the wall.

8. Patch over the countersunk screws at the mid-point of the column using a two-part filler (i.e. “Bondo”, Dynatron “Putty Cote”). The cap and base/plinth will cover the counter screws at the bottom and the top.
 

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9. 2ND STORY BALCONY SUGGESTIONS

Worthington does not recommend that the floor joist for a second story porch or balcony be connected to a wood or fiberglass column. The recommended technique involves the use of a structural column or support column (sometimes referred to as a “lolly” column).
A joist hanger is attached to the lolly column at the appropriate height above ground. The floor joist is supported by the lolly column. The column itself should be split and the contractor can notch the column on the job site at the appropriate height to allow the floor joist to pass through the column. The weight supported by the floor joist, however does not rest on the bottom of the notch. Instead, the weight rests on the lolly column. The split column is reassembled around the lolly column.

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Example: If your opening is 8 feet or 96 inches, you can use the chart below to figure what size diameter column you will need for the capital you desire.
 

Order Divisor Calculation “Rite Size” Column
       
tucsan 7 96/7 = 13.7 14” x 8’
Doric 8 96/8 = 12.0 12” x 8’
Ionic 9 96/9 = 10.7 10” or 12” x 8’
Corinthian 10 96/10 = 9.6 10” x 8’
Composite 10 96/10 = 9.6 10” x 8’


IMPORTANT

Be certain the load is evenly distributed over the bearing surface of the shaft.

If building code requires uplift protection, contact us for recommendations.

To preserve and protect the column outdoors, it is necessary to paint with one coat of high quality exterior primer followed by two coats of an exterior paint.

2nd floor balconies should NOT be attached directly to the side of any fiberglass column. Please contact us for recommendations.

Water should not be allowed to collect inside fiberglass columns. Flashing may be required to channel water away from the inside of the column. A drainage hole can be drilled in the bottom of the shaft and plinth if necessary.
 

 

fax: 1.904.281.1488

  e-mail: info@worthingtonmillwork.com


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