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Columns - Installation Instructions
WORTHINGTONCAST COLUMNS
1.
SPECIAL NOTES AND EXCEPTIONS
•
Be certain the load is evenly distributed over
the bearing surface of the shaft.
• If building code requires uplift protection,
contact Worthington for recommendations.
• To preserve and protect the columns
outdoors, it is necessary to paint with one
coat of high quality exterior primer followed
by two coats of an exterior paint.
• 2nd floor balconies should NOT be attached
directly to the side of any fiberglass column.
Please contact Worthington for recommendations
• Water should not be allowed to collect
inside fiberglass columns. Flashing maybe
required to channel water away from the inside
of the column. A drainage hole can be drilled
at the bottom of shaft and plinth if
necessary. |
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2. FINISHING AND PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
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1.
Make sure all surfaces are clean prior to
painting. Use mineral spirits if oils or alkyd
products are use. Warm soapy water should be
used if latex products are utilized.
2. It is necessary to sand the column and caps
and bases prior to priming and painting. Some
filling may be required. Note: The surface on
polyurethane caps and bases/ plinths must be
thoroughly scuffed and sanded with 120 grit
sandpaper and wiped clean prior to priming and
painting.
3. Alkyd or oil based primer and paint are
recommended. Latex products can be used, but
additional sanding is required. Only alkyd or
oil base primers and paint must be used on
DuraWound columns, caps, astragals, and base/
plinths.
4. Use a good, high-quality exterior paint. At
least one coat of primer and two coats of a
final paint should be used.
5. Follow paint manufacturer’s instructions
concerning use with temperate ranges for best
results.
6. Do not use paint or solvents containing
acetone. |
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3.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1.
Determine the position of the plinth by dropping a
plumb line from the center of the soffit beam to the
floor. Mark this point on the floor with a "X". This
mark is where you will center the plinth so that the
top of the shaft will align with the soffit.

2.
Measure the overall height. Raise the soffit or
porch slightly with brace for easy installation of
the column.

3. Trim
column shaft on the bottom end only. Trim with an
abrasive saw. (Be sure to use personal protective
wear.) Finish both the top and bottom of shaft with
a rasp or sander to ensure an even load distribution
around the entire circumference.

4. Slide
cap over top of column shaft. Let cap slide down to
rest on the neck mold temporarily until shaft is
correctly positioned. (If installing a square
column, slide neck mould over top of shaft to
desired location. Fasten neck mould to shaft. Caulk
between neck mould and shaft.)

5. Slide
base/plinth onto column shaft from bottom.

6. Place
column in a vertical position with load centered
over column shaft with even distribution around
bearing surfaces.

7. If
installation requires that column be secured in
place prior to bearing load, use small L brackets.
Be careful to ensure L brackets do not interfere
with seating of cap and base/plinth. Note: to secure
bracket to column, drill hole into shaft and use
through bolts. Do not use screws. Do not over
tighten.

8.
Remove brace to allow load to bear on column shaft.

9. Slide
cap up to soffit and attach to soffit using
corrosions resistant screws. Attach to floor using
appropriate fasteners.

10.
Caulk between cap and soffit, the cap and shaft, and
the base and the shaft for a finished appearance.
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4. ALTERING COLUMNS
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1.
CUTTING COLUMNS TO OVERALL LENGTH. Columns can
be field trimmed or ordered from the factory
trimmed to a specific length. When trimming a
round fiberglass column shaft to length, make
sure to trim from the bottom end only. A
circular saw with an abrasive blade can be
used to make this cut. (Make sure to always
wear protective equipment.) It is important to
never trim any more than 1/3 of any round
fiberglass column shaft. The round fiberglass
column has true architectural taper. (The
bottom 1/3 is non-tapered, the top 2/3 is
tapered.) If more than the bottom 1/3 is
trimmed, the base will not fit properly.
Square fiberglass columns can be trimmed to
any length since they are non-tapered.
2. ALTERING FLUTES- Flutes can be altered only
on the adjustable fluted columns if ordered as
a special order from the factory. Flutes
normally need to be altered if the column will
be trimmed in order to avoid cutting into the
flutes. Or it may be desired to stop the
flutes closer to the top of the base. Standard
stock adjustable fluted columns have a 10 ¾”
space from the bottom of the flute to the top
of the tucsan base/plinth.
3. CUTTING COLUMN AT BEAD- all round
fiberglass columns used with decorative
capitals should be trimmed flush above the
bead/ astragal. The capital should rest on top
of the bead/ astragal and will allow for a
proper fit. Columns can be ordered from the
factory cut at the bead, or this can be
trimmed in the field. A circular saw with an
abrasive blade can be used to trim a column at
the bead/ astragal. (Make sure to use personal
protective equipment.) There are several
considerations to be made when ordering
fiberglass columns used with decorative
capitals. The cut at bead loss and the
decorative capital height must always be taken
into consideration. In addition, a fiberglass
column used with a short decorative capital
may require that a longer shaft be ordered. |
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5. JOINING
SPLIT COLUMNS
The Worthington Split-Kit includes everything needed
to install a split column (these kits must be
purchased separately). Columns that are split to
surround structural supports should be installed
similarly to un-split columns. However, the
following procedures should be followed when putting
the split halves back together.
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1.
Split columns are shipped from the factory
with matching halves wrapped together. Keep
the columns halves together as packages and
mark the columns halves by number sets so that
they cannot be mismatched. It is important to
reassemble split halves as soon as possible
after shipping. We do not recommend storing
for an extended amount of time. Make sure
columns halves match before applying bonding
adhesive. Level and check your measurements,
and then install split halves around the
structural support.
2. Tabbing is required on all DuraWound
columns that are split. Call Worthington for
recommendations. Tabbing is optional for
Worthington-Cast columns split for reassembly.
3. Rejoin the shaft using high-quality,
exterior, waterproof construction adhesive
suitable for fiberglass columns. Surfaces must
be clean and dry prior to applying adhesives.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions concerning
use with temperature ranges and working time
for best results.
4. Align halves around the post or structural
support and join together. Clamp and tighten
uniformly until adhesive sets. (Alternatively,
nylon reinforced tape wrapped very tightly
around the column can be used.) The
compression should be applied approximately
even 12” along the length of the shaft.
5. Place aluminum plates across split at top
and bottom of shaft. Mark and pre-drill holes
using a 7/64” bit.
6. Screw down one side of aluminum plate and
then the other side of the plate. The aluminum
plates will bend around the shaft. This step
should be done for all plates.
7. After Adhesive cures, remove the clamps,
straps or tape. Rough sand with 80 grit and
finish sand with 120 grit or finer sandpaper.
8. Rejoin the caps and base/plinths with the
same adhesive.
9. A fiberglass boat repair kit or “Bondo” may
be used as a filler. Follow the instructions
on the package. |
Suggested Adhesives: CX-948, OSI Quickbond
Multi-Purpose Adhesive, Macklandburg-Duncan
Contractor’s Choice Multi-Purpose Adhesive, 3M-5200
Adhesive, PL-400, Titebond, Maxbond, or Akemi APF7
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6.
JOINING SPLIT AND TABBED COLUMNS
All DuraWound fiberglass columns that are ordered
split should be ordered split and tabbed. If columns
are ordered from the factory split and tabbed,
Worthington will prepare DuraWound columns as
follows:
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1.
Plywood forms will be installed inside one
half of the column shaft. These will be
plywood ribs with a segment removed from each
to allow passage around the structural
support. Plywood ribs will be placed in 3-foot
intervals.
2. Tabs made of wood blocks will be installed
down both seams inside one of the columns
halves. Worthington will permanently attach
tabs to only one half of each column. The
function of the tabs are attached to the
inside walls of the column, and they are not
visible after the column halves are joined.
3. Doweled mending blocks will be attached to
the inside of fiberglass caps and base/
plinths only to facilitate re-assembly of the
split caps and base/ plinths. (This is not
supplied on polyurethane caps and
base/plinths.) |
AT THE JOB SITE, THE INSTALLATION SHOULD PROCEED
AS FOLLOWS:
1.
The column half with ribs and tabs can be
trial fitted by placing the column around the
structural post. The other half should be
positioned, lapping over the tabs. Secure with
flexible web clamps approximately ever 3 feet.
If grabber screws will be used, drill small
pilot holes every 6” through the lapping
column half into the wood tabs.
2. Apply adhesive to the outer surface of the
tabs. (This can be done with the column
standing, or the column can be removed.) The
lapping column should be installed and secured
with flexible clamps. Grabber screws may or
may not be needed depending upon the number of
clamps used. If grabber screws are used,
fasten them into the holes drilled in step
one.
3. After adhesive cures, the grabber screws
are removed. The screw holes and seam should
be filled using a filler compound such as
“Bond” or a fiberglass boat repair kit.
4. Finish the seam area with 120 sandpaper
after filler compound has dried.
5. Rejoin the caps and base/ plinth halves
around the shaft with adhesive. Secure cap to
soffit. At base, secure plinth seams with
filler compound and sand after filler compound
has dried. |
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7. HOW TO SPLIT FIBERGLASS/ WOOD COLUMNS
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1.
Secure column to sawhorse or table using
scotches. Scotches should be wrapped with
cloth material to provide cushion and to avoid
scratching column.
2. Place the scotches snugly against the
column ensuring that the column will remain in
place while being cut.
3. After column is secured, a chalk line
should be applied to the column. To lay the
chalk line, place a string over the base end
diameter of the column to the center of the
string ensuring that the string is centered.
Mark the column on the top where the string is
centered. Run the chalk line from the mark on
the top end of the column to the mark on the
base end and snap the chalk line.
4. To make the bottom line, use a
circumference measuring tape and measure the
circumference distance from the top mark and
place a mark on the bottom of the column.
5. Once both chalk lines have been applied to
the column, set the saw blade at the
appropriate depth ensuring that it will pass
cleanly through the bead/ astragal molding.
6. Use a circular saw with an abrasive blade.
(Make sure to use proper protective
equipment.) Begin sawing from the base end
moving to the bead/ astragal end. Rotate
column and repeat sawing on the bottom. |
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8. HOW TO ATTACH A SPLIT FIBERGLASS/ WOOD COLUMN
TO A WALL AS A PILASTER.
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1.
Select desired location and trace short lines
at the top, midpoint, and bottom on both sides
of the split column.
2. Gage the thickness of the column wall and
trace lines to show where the inside wall will
be at the top, midpoint, and bottom. Note:
Wall thickness on fiberglass columns at the
top is widest because of the flare just above
the bead.
3. Attach six wood blocks (two screws per
block) to the building wall just inside the
traced lines your marked in step two. The
block dimensions should be approximately ¾” X
1 ½” X 3”. Make sure that the top and the
bottom blocks within height of the cap and
base so that finishing will not be required
with the countersunk holes.
4. Drill six holes in the column wall at the
points where the screws will line up with the
blocks installed in step three. Holes should
be countersunk so that the head of the screw
will be slightly below the surface of the
column wall.
5. Place the split column in position and
fasten it to the wood blocks. Screws should be
snug. Do not over tighten because the column
wall can be damaged.
6. Attach split cap and base/ plinths using
dry wall screws. Make sure to pre-drill holes.
Fasten cap and base/plinth to wall, ceiling or
floor.
7. Caulk joints and seam where the column edge
meets the wall.
8. Patch over the countersunk screws at the
mid-point of the column using a two-part
filler (i.e. “Bondo”, Dynatron “Putty Cote”).
The cap and base/plinth will cover the counter
screws at the bottom and the top.
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9.
2ND STORY BALCONY SUGGESTIONS
Worthington does not recommend that the floor joist
for a second story porch or balcony be connected to
a wood or fiberglass column. The recommended
technique involves the use of a structural column or
support column (sometimes referred to as a “lolly”
column).
A joist hanger is attached to the lolly column at
the appropriate height above ground. The floor joist
is supported by the lolly column. The column itself
should be split and the contractor can notch the
column on the job site at the appropriate height to
allow the floor joist to pass through the column.
The weight supported by the floor joist, however
does not rest on the bottom of the notch. Instead,
the weight rests on the lolly column. The split
column is reassembled around the lolly column.
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Example: If your opening is 8 feet or 96 inches,
you can use the chart below to figure what size
diameter column you will need for the capital you
desire.
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Order |
Divisor |
Calculation |
“Rite Size” Column |
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tucsan |
7 |
96/7 = 13.7 |
14” x 8’ |
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Doric |
8 |
96/8 = 12.0 |
12” x 8’ |
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Ionic |
9 |
96/9 = 10.7 |
10” or 12” x 8’ |
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Corinthian |
10
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96/10 = 9.6 |
10” x 8’ |
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Composite |
10 |
96/10 = 9.6 |
10” x 8’ |
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